Aegyo Sal Under Eye Technique: How to Get That Korean Glow

Aegyo sal is a Korean makeup technique using light, shimmery highlighter or eyeshadow applied to the under-eye area to create a soft, lifted fullness. At Vietnam Makeup Artist by Cáo MakeUp, we apply this in layers: a matte base to even skin tone, then peachy or champagne-toned cream or powder highlighter in a small arc along the orbital bone, sealed with a fine-mist setting spray to survive Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Da Nang, and Hue's heat and humidity. The effect lasts 6–8 hours on normal skin, longer with primer. It suits all skin tones—we match undertones for Western and mixed skin—and works best on smooth, hydrated under-eyes. A trial session takes 30–45 minutes; for weddings or events, we apply it as part of a full look. Ask us for a quote on WhatsApp.

Aegyo sal has become a signature of Korean beauty, and for good reason: it makes anyone look awake, youthful, and naturally glowing. The technique isn't hard, but it demands the right products, placement, and climate control—especially in Southeast Asia. We've refined this technique across our studios in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Da Nang, and Hue to work in real heat and humidity. Here's what we've learned.

What exactly is aegyo sal, and why does it matter?

Aegyo sal is the soft, pillowy fullness that sits just under the eye, below the orbital bone. Korean makeup artists call it "cute fat" because it catches light and creates an innocent, youthful look. It's not a crease or shadow—it's a highlight placed in a precise arc to mimic natural under-eye volume. Unlike Western full-face highlighting, aegyo sal is hyper-localized and soft. The payoff: your eyes read 3–5 years younger, and the effect is subtle enough for everyday wear or bold enough for weddings and photoshoots. This technique works across all eye shapes and ethnicities when placed and shaded correctly. We customize each client's aegyo sal based on their natural bone structure and undertone.

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How do you apply aegyo sal step-by-step?

We start by analyzing your under-eye area. Skin must be smooth, so we apply a hydrating primer if your skin is dry or dehydrated. Next, we apply a concealer two shades lighter than your skin tone—this neutralizes redness and creates a base. We then apply a cream or powder highlighter (usually peachy, champagne, or gold, depending on your undertone) in a small crescent shape on the orbital bone. The arc sits about 1 cm below the lash line and curves from the inner eye toward the outer corner, never reaching the tear duct or the temple. We blend it gently with a damp beauty sponge or fingertip so the edges fade into skin, never harsh. Finally, we set it with a fine-mist setting spray—this step is non-negotiable in Vietnam's humidity. The whole process takes 10–15 minutes as part of a full makeup session. On photoshoot makeup jobs, we use waterproof primers and longer-wear formulas to ensure it photographs well under studio or natural light.

What products work best in heat and humidity?

Here's where most DIY attempts fail: lightweight, dewy aegyo sal melts in tropical heat. We use cream or powder highlighters with silicone bases, which adhere better than shimmery liquids. Peachy and champagne tones suit most undertones, but we always do a trial first. Setting spray is essential—we apply it in two light mists, 30 seconds apart, to let each layer dry. We avoid overly wet or glossy formulas because they migrate into fine lines and can look muddy by midday. For bridal makeup in Vietnam's climate, we layer a waterproof primer under the concealer, then the highlighter, then seal again. This formula lasts 8+ hours even in air-conditioned venues or outdoor ceremonies. For clients with oily under-eyes, we use a pore-minimizing primer first to mattify the skin. For dry or mature skin, we prep with a hydrating serum and use cream highlighters for a softer finish.

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How do you match undertones for Western and mixed skin?

This is where customization matters. Undertone—not skin depth—determines which aegyo sal color suits you. Warm undertones (yellow, orange, or golden) pair with peachy, bronze, or warm champagne highlighters. Cool undertones (pink, red, or blue) suit silver, cool champagne, or mauve highlighters. Neutral undertones work with both. We assess undertone by looking at vein color on your wrist, natural hair tone, and how colors sit against your skin. For mixed-race or multiethnic clients, we often layer two tones: a warmer base with a cooler shift on top, or vice versa, to create depth. This approach also suits darker skin tones—we lean toward gold, bronze, or peachy copper rather than pure silver, which can look ashy. During a 1-to-1 makeup class or bridal makeup trial, we test 2–3 shades on your under-eye to show the difference before committing. You'll see instantly which shade makes your eyes pop. We document the shade for future bookings.

Who should get aegyo sal, and who should skip it?

Aegyo sal is flattering on most people, but context matters. It's ideal for wedding days, engagement photoshoots, birthday galas, and everyday Korean-inspired looks. We recommend it for clients with naturally large or expressive eyes—it amplifies that feature. If you have deep-set eyes or significant under-eye bags (not just darkness), aegyo sal can highlight texture you'd rather downplay; in that case, we use a more diffused glow or focus elsewhere. Clients with very oily skin may need a matte primer and powder version instead of cream. If you're uncomfortable with reflective makeup or prefer a minimal look, aegyo sal isn't for you. For elopement & proposal makeup, it's a great touch if you want soft, romantic lighting. For groom & men grooming, we apply aegyo sal subtly—minimal shimmer, closer to the orbital bone—to keep it masculine and natural. During a trial, we always ask if you've worn aegyo sal before and show you the effect in natural and indoor light so you can decide.

What should you check before booking an aegyo sal session?

Before you book, consider these details:

• Under-eye skin condition: Are you dehydrated, prone to eczema, or wearing active acne treatment? Tell us—we may need to prep differently or adjust placement.
• Sensitivity: Have you had reactions to shimmer products or primers? Share this so we choose hypoallergenic options.
• Undertone: Bring a photo of a makeup look you love or wear a top in your signature color so we can assess your undertone accurately.
• Longevity needs: If you're getting aegyo sal for a 12-hour wedding day, say so. We'll use heavier-duty primers and sealing sprays.
• Climate and venue: Outdoor ceremony in Da Nang humidity? Indoor air-conditioned gala? We adjust formulations and application density accordingly.
• Photography: If photos are crucial (photoshoots, weddings), tell us. We'll choose highlighters that don't blow out under flash.

For a full look including aegyo sal, book a trial 2–4 weeks before your event. We offer hotel makeup at major venues in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Da Nang, Hue, and by request in Hoan Kiem District or central business areas. On the day, we can adjust intensity based on lighting and how you feel.

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Where are Cáo MakeUp's studios, and do you offer aegyo sal at every location?

Yes. We have studios in Hanoi (3 branches), Ho Chi Minh City, Da Nang (108 Hoi Kieng 18, Ngu Hanh Son Ward), and Hue (63 Vo Duy Ninh, Thanh Thuy Ward). Aegyo sal is available at all locations, plus hotel makeup on-site and on-location for elopements and events. Ask us for a quote on WhatsApp.